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WORLD
POLICY JOURNAL
| ARTICLE:
Volume XX, No 2, Summer 2003 |
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The Second
Coming of Global Shanghai
Jeffrey N. Wasserstrom*
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discussion forum]
Shanghai,
the Paris of the East! Shanghai, the New York of the West! Shanghai,
the most cosmopolitan city in the world, the fishing village on
a mudflat which almost literally overnight became a great metropolis....
Cosmopolitan Shanghai, city of amazing paradoxes and fantastic
contrasts.... A vast brilliantly hued cycloramic, panoramic mural
of the best and the worst of Orient and Occident.
—
All About Shanghai and Environs
A
1934 guidebook
A DECADE
OF STELLAR ACHIEVEMENTS The Shanghai Star is 10 years old
this week. Over the decade it has charted the transformation of
Shanghai from a third world backwater into the world’s most dynamic
metropolis.... Over these 10 years the number of high-rise buildings
in Puxi has increased more than tenfold, while Pudong has emerged
out of swampy farmland to become one of the most spectacular cityscapes
on Earth.
—
The Shanghai Star
November
11, 2002
With the People’s
Republic of China gaining full membership in the World Trade Organization
and much of the ensuing new investment likely to center in Shanghai,
2002 promised from the start to be a pivotal year for this most
celebrated—and infamous— of Chinese port cities. Several things
added to the heady sense of expectation that took hold a year ago
by the banks of the muddy Huangpu River, perhaps the most important
of which was the highly publicized bid local officials were gearing
up to make to host the 2010 World Exposition. In an earlier era,
bringing a world’s fair to town could solidify a city’s reputation
as a global hub (think New York 1939) or put emergent world cities
on the international map (think Chicago 1893). Shanghai’s leaders
began 2002 hoping that a successful bid would accomplish the latter
for their metropolis as it strives to regain the reputation that
it had in the 1930s (but lost between the 1940s and 1980s), not
just as China’s main industrial metropolis but as one of the world’s
great global cities. And at the close of last year, there was jubilation
when word broke that the second world exposition of the twenty-first
century would indeed be held beside the Huangpu.
Two thousand
and two was destined to be a year of high expectations since, as
everyone knows who follows the history of this protean metropolis
that is now sometimes called "New Shanghai" (to distinguish
it from pre1949 "Old Shanghai"), it marked a milestone
anniversary—and not just for the city’s main English-language newspaper.
It is no accident that the Shanghai Star was launched in
1992, for that was when China’s paramount leader, Deng Xiaoping,
announced that the Yangzi River Delta of which this metropolis is
the central commercial hub, and the city’s Pudong district on the
eastern bank of the Huangpu in particular, would play a central
role in China’s opening up to the outside world. During the first
dozen years or so of the Reform Era (which began in 1978), Shanghai
had been bypassed as a major focus of development. Beijing had gambled
on the potential of urban centers further south. The regime hoped
that Shenzhen, a new city of the Pearl River Delta, and the great
southern metropolis of Canton would emerge as China’s key twenty-first-century
centers of commerce and the mainland’s strongest economic competitors
to Hong Kong. Efforts were made to encourage foreign investors to
pour money into those cities rather than Shanghai, which was associated
with not just one but two stigmas: imperialist domination and the
ultra-radical excesses of the decade of the Cultural Revolution
of 1966–76. Between the 1840s and the 1940s, parts of the city were
under foreign control, and then, in the last years of Mao Zedong’s
life, Shanghai became the main base of operations of his wife, Jiang
Qing, and the three other members of the notorious Gang of Four.
By the start
of the 1990s, however, two things made a change in strategy both
possible and attractive. First, it had become clear that Shenzhen
and Canton, given their proximity to Hong Kong, were unlikely ever
to be able to emerge from the latter’s shadow. Second, in the wake
of the Tiananmen protests and party leader Zhao Ziyang’s fall from
power, Jiang Zemin and other officials with Shanghai roots had risen
to prominent positions in the Communist Party leadership. Worried
that come 1997 Hong Kong would appear to be the only city in China
worthy of the title "global metropolis," and with his
chosen successor, Jiang, linked to Shanghai, Deng reversed his stance
on Shanghai’s role in the country’s development strategy. The associations
of its past had come to seem less important than its potential to
reclaim its historic position as a leading center of international
trade.
In a famous 1992
speech, Deng announced that henceforth the Yangzi Delta would serve
as the "dragon’s head" of China’s modernization and opening
to the world. He thus gave his personal blessing to the energetic
program of urban renewal and internationalization that has, in a surprisingly
brief period of time, transformed Pudong from a relatively undeveloped
riverfront zone into a high-tech forest of glittering skyscrapers,
and changed Shanghai from a city that had largely become cut off from
the capitalist West to a place where more than half of the world’s
500 leading corporations have branch offices. By the late 1990s, as
the British ethnographer Jos Gamble puts it in Shanghai in Transition,
the city was firmly "embarked upon one of the most adventurous
and frenetic" urban renewal drives that "the world has ever
known." As a result, there were around "23,000 building
sites and some 20 per cent of the world’s cranes" in Shanghai
at the turn of the millennium. 1
In the wake
of the regime’s about-face in 1992, Hong Kong financiers and venture
capitalists looking to gain a foothold on the mainland turned to
Shanghai. Investors from Taiwan soon followed suit. Investment from
these two parts of "Greater China," as well as from Singapore,
has continued to grow in the new century, and the cultural influence
of Hong Kong styles on the city’s nightlife and fashion industry
in particular has become increasingly pronounced.
It is no surprise,
therefore, that local boosters began 2002 in an exuberant mood,
hoping the year would go down in history as a coming-out party of
sorts for their once-and-now-again world-class metropolis. A brief
stay in Shanghai in June 2002—I lived in the city for ten months
beginning in August 1986 and have since revisited it often— revealed
that the spirit of optimism with which the year had begun had continued
to gather steam throughout the spring. Each day of my visit brought
fresh evidence of the intense local pride that is being encouraged
by newspaper headlines proclaiming Shanghai a "City of the
Future" that is on its way to joining Tokyo and London in the
ranks of the great urban centers of the world.
 |
| Pudong,
Shanghai. Photograph by Benjamin Pauker |
Old friends
asked: Didn’t I find it hard to believe how much more there was
to do at night in Shanghai now than in the 1980s when we had first
become friends? Didn’t I find it amazing how many skyscrapers and
elegant department stores had been built in the last few years,
how many bars and coffeehouses had opened, how many more nicely
kept up parks there were to stroll in? Weren’t the new art museum
and the new public library impressive? Wasn’t it a relief to be
able to get around town via subway, rather than fighting your way
onto old crowded buses or making your way by bike through streets
thronged with other cyclists? Didn’t I find it easier to buy things
to read these days, thanks to the opening of places like Shucheng
(Book City), with its computerized stock list, and the Jifeng Bookstore,
with its excellent selection of translations of Western literary
and philosophical works? Didn’t I agree that, while in the 1980s
Hong Kong might have been much more "modern" and "international"
than Shanghai, now the situation was very different?
There was also
visual evidence of renewed local pride—and of the official efforts
to stir up enthusiasm for the city—in the billboards lining the
streets, which called on the world to make Shanghai’s "wishes
a reality" by allowing it to host the 2010 Exposition. Public
spaces that in the 1980s were reserved exclusively for advertising
the glories of the Communist Party and the special characteristics
of the Chinese nation were now as likely to be given over to displays
calling attention to the glories of the city.
The festivities
for this grand coming-out party for the latest incarnation of New
Shanghai began before 2002 had even started. Among other things,
there was the APEC Summit of October 2001 that brought Pacific Rim
business luminaries (such as Bill Gates) and political heavyweights
(such as Vladimir Putin and George W. Bush) to Shanghai. Summit
participants heard a good deal about the city’s recent accomplishments
and splendid future. Watching a display of fireworks explode above
the colonial landmarks of the old Bund, they were no doubt struck,
as so many visitors have been, by how small those old buildings
(once among the grandest structures in Asia) looked in comparison
to the new glass palaces of Pudong.
Is Shanghai
really poised to become one of the great global cities of the new
century? Will it become a cosmopolitan cultural center as well as
major business hub? Last June, Les Misérables, the
first lavish Broadway musical to come to a mainland Chinese city
with its main touring company opened at Shanghai’s elegant new Grand
Theater. At the end of the year, Universal Studios signed a deal
to open the first international-standard theme park on the mainland
in the city. And before being forced to cancel their tour due to
the SARS epidemic, Shanghai was to be one of the two cities (Beijing
was the other) to be included in the first Rolling Stones tour of
China.
Are these signs
of a cultural awakening? What significance does it have, more generally,
that national as well as local pride has been spurred by real and
imagined signals that Shanghai is again, as it unquestionably once
was, one of the hottest cities in the world for globetrotting travelers
and foreign investors? In his influential study of Los Angeles,
City of Quartz, urban theorist and California historian Mike
Davis argues persuasively that the political economies and cultural
lives of major urban centers are shaped in part by what boosters
and detractors— and Shanghai has those as well—say about them. If
this is the case, what should we make of the "city myths"
(to borrow his term) now in play in the newest New Shanghai of them
all? 2
Looking Backward
There
are always reasons to look backward before gazing into the future,
but this is particularly true with respect to New Shanghai because
the city’s current resurgence is tied in complex ways to its emergence
in the late 1800s and early 1900s as the premier Chinese center for
international economic and cultural flows. "Modern Chinese banking
and finance, manufacturing and organization (and the new class of
Chinese associated with them and divorced from traditional China)
all got their start there, are still largely concentrated there, and
for the last hundred years have spread out from there as from the
center of a whirlpool." This is what the geographer and historian
Rhoads Murphey wrote about the city in the immediate aftermath of
the 1949 revolution in his now classic study, Shanghai: Key to
Modern China. 3 Along the Huangpu, much is now made
of the notion that since Shanghai once brought China into the "modern"
world it is uniquely positioned to lead the country’s effort to become
a dominant economic and cultural power in the new century. The local
fascination with history is also evidenced by the nostalgia craze
that has led to the recent opening of so many restaurants and nightspots
with 1930s themes. Another reason to look backward is that the present
moment is by no means the first time that local pride and boosterism
have been significant factors on the Shanghai scene.
How far back
should we look? There are many places in history to begin. The most
obvious is the two decades following the First World War, which
was when the image of the city as an anything-goes cosmopolitan
center of dramatic events, decadent lifestyles, and dangerous characters
took hold in the West, thanks largely to Hollywood films. However,
I think one should begin several decades earlier: in 1893, to be
precise.
Why that particular
year? Because it was one in which local pride reached a high-water
mark and newly constructed city myths were promulgated with particular
force. This was in part due to the fact that 1893, like 2002, saw
the arrival of a key anniversary—the end of the first half-century
of the existence in Shanghai of foreign run enclaves. (The first
of these was created in 1843 under the provisions of the Treaty
of Nanjing, which ended the First Opium War, when a section of Shanghai
was opened to British trade and settlement.) This was also a time
for pyrotechnic displays— mounted to accompany the Shanghai Jubilee,
when proud local residents boasted about the great things in store
for their city.
It is worth noting
that, as different as the present moment is from 1893, the "city
myths" articulated during the Shanghai Jubilee were not completely
unlike those one encounters today. In 1893, as in 2002, for example,
Shanghai was touted as a city that had just undergone a series of
transformations that were nothing short of miraculous. These had,
according to hyperbolic boosters, changed Shanghai into a stunning
symbol of modernity different from anything else found on the Chinese
mainland. Then, as later during the APEC Summit, the organizers went
to great lengths to use a splashy gathering, complete with speeches
by local and visiting notables, to present their urban center as a
truly world-class city. Then, as more recently, the main focus of
celebratory activity was a strip of land running along the bank of
the Huangpu that, boosters stressed, within living memory had contained
no buildings of any note. Even the rhetoric of the two eras is similar.
A Jubilee commemorative volume issued in 1893 spoke of Old Shanghai
developing as if "by enchantment." This finds a direct parallel
in the many references to "magic" that abound in contemporary
newspaper reports and guidebook descriptions of New Shanghai’s recent
rise. 4
There are,
however, some noteworthy differences between the Jubilee and the
current generation of Shanghai celebrations, beginning with the
fact that the main hosts of the 1893 festivities were not Chinese.
The Shanghai Jubilee, with its name redolent of Victorian pomp and
circumstance, was not coincidentally largely the work of British
settlers. (Members of other local foreign communities, especially
the Americans, pitched in as well; the Japanese, then relative newcomers
among the foreigners in Shanghai, supplied the fireworks.)
Another difference
is that the 1893 Jubilee was not intended to link Shanghai’s development
to China’s rise as a nation. The Western "Shanghailanders"
of the time were obsessed with the idea that they were living not
so much in a part of China as in a displaced piece of the West.
True, their houses, places of business, parks, and churches were
surrounded by an "alien empire" (as one Jubilee commemorative
album put it). But they insisted that the International Settlement
was not part of any country but rather a free-floating "republic,"
a throwback to Venice of the city-state era. 5 Moreover,
though Chinese architectural influences could be seen in the settlement
by that point and the enclave’s population was made up largely of
people from different parts of China, there was much about this
part of Shanghai that was more reminiscent of a British than of
an Asian metropolis. The International Settlement’s race course
and foreigners’ clubs, for example, looked much like those to be
found in Liverpool or London, and had little in common with anything
one would have encountered on a visit to an inland Chinese city
such as Chengdu or Chongqing. And the restaurants in the neighboring
French Concession (a more straightforwardly colonial enclave) were
more like those of Paris than those of Beijing. To the Anglophone
Shanghailanders and their French neighbors, Shanghai’s development
was about the spread of Christendom and Western forms of commerce
to the far corners of the globe. Celebrating the rise of Shanghai,
in their minds, had nothing to do with celebrating the rise of China.
In fact, at
the 1893 event much was made of a moment in the then recent past,
the end of the First Opium War, when China had been laid particularly
low. Had China not been defeated by Britain in 1842, Westerners
would not have begun to arrive in Shanghai in November 1843, and
hence no Jubilee would have been possible. By contrast, in contemporary
Shanghai local pride (at least in its official manifestations) is
generally linked to nationalism. The city’s resurgence as a great
metropolis is treated as inextricably tied to China’s renewed prominence
as a global economic and political power. This means that there
is a tension now, which was not evident in 1893, between the emphasis
boosters put on Shanghai’s uniqueness and the efforts they make
to present it as providing a template for what other Chinese cities
could soon become.
Another major
contrast between Shanghai of the 1890s and Shanghai of today is
that the metropolis is now a unified city completely under the control
of the Communist Party. In the days of the Jubilee, it was a fragmented
collection of three different districts, each run in a distinctive
fashion. Under the quasi-colonial "treaty-port system"
that was well in place by 1893, Shanghai was subdivided into a Chinese
municipality and the two smaller but more prosperous foreign-run
districts. The larger and more economically vibrant of the two,
the International Settlement, was run by a locally elected municipal
council that did not have to answer directly to any foreign government.
The French Concession, just to the south of the settlement, had
a municipal council, too, but one that was run by an individual
appointed by Paris.
One thing to
keep in mind is that, by 1893, there were majority Chinese populations
in all parts of the quasi-colonial three-cities in one that was
Old Shanghai. Another is that the municipal councils of both foreign-run
districts depended on income from taxes paid by the small minority
of Chinese residents wealthy enough to own land and pay rates. And
yet, until the 1920s, no Chinese—not even the wealthy ones—could
vote or stand for office in either district. In addition, for much
of the treaty-port era, all Chinese other than servants were banned
from entering some of the nicest "public" parks that the
foreign municipal councils maintained. They were banned, for example,
from the elegant riverfront Public Garden that was one of the showplaces
of the Settlement. 6
Members of
the Chinese majority population of Shanghai were, it should be noted,
invited to attend the Jubilee—and some of the socalled "native
guilds" even organized parades to accompany the gala. 7
Never-the-less, it was clearly a ritual that was not just
mainly put on by but also for the Shanghai-landers. A central theme
of the celebration was the notion—so crucial to the Shanghailander
city myth—that Western settlers had created an oasis of "civilization"
in an inhospitable setting largely on their own. In Jubilee commemorative
volumes, there were any number of omissions about the city’s past.
One was that Shanghai had been a bustling market town long before
the start of the First Opium War in 1839, and was home to some 200,000
people and to trading companies that moved goods from the Chinese
hinterland provinces to Southeast Asia. Noting these details would
have undermined the Shanghailander fairy tale of pioneers rapidly
transforming a small "fishing village" and the "wilderness
of marshes" surrounding it into a showplace of Western modernity.
To reinforce this effacing of the pre-Western past, the Shanghailanders
described the Jubilee as commemorating the fiftieth anniversary
of the "birth" of the city, not just their arrival in
it. And when the Jubilee Oration was delivered (in which the Reverend
William Muirhead celebrated Shanghai’s emergence as "the centre
of our higher civilisation and Christian influence for all of China"),
though foreigners could stand near the stage, Chinese were kept
back behind a police cordon. 8
Yet another
contrast between the current moment and the days of the Shanghai
Jubilee has to do with the relationship between the metropolis by
the Huangpu and the cities to its south. Consider, for example,
the relationship between Shanghai and the most important southern
Chinese port, which in 1893 was Canton and now is Hong Kong. In
the mid-nineteenth century, Shanghai was in Canton’s shadow in terms
of economic importance, whether measured in volume of trade or level
of engagement with Western business. By the end of the century,
their relationship had been reversed. Now, although Shanghai has
begun to rival Hong Kong in many ways and to surpass it in others,
the latter continues to outstrip the former in certain areas. Hong
Kong’s stock market, for example, is still much more important than
Shanghai’s. And, to cite a much more trivial, though still symbolically
telling, case in point, while Shanghai is getting a Universal Studios
theme park, it is Hong Kong that is getting the first Chinese Disneyland.
9
Old Problems
in New Times
Looking
back to the Jubilee in this era of Shanghai’s resurgence alerts
us to how much has changed by the Huangpu since the 1890s. There
are also, however, some similarities between past and present, beyond
the parallel city myths, worth mentioning. Of particular note are
some sources of immediate or potential discontent that link the
two eras. As different as New Shanghai is from its predecessor,
in fact, it would be well for the city’s current leaders to realize
just how many of the grievances that angered local Chinese residents
in 1893, and festered in the decades that followed, have either
never gone away or have begun to reemerge.
Now, no less than
in the late 1800s, Chinese citizens of Shanghai can claim that they
live in a metropolis where "taxation without representation"
is the rule. In the reemerging sources of discontent category, an
article by John Gittings in the Guardian on the lead-up to
the APEC Summit is telling. Gittings highlights the extent to which,
in their eagerness to make the city safe for and aesthetically appealing
to distinguished guests, the local authorities did things reminiscent
of what foreigners used to do. For example, as new parks were created
to beautify the city, some "working class housing" that
stood in the way was destroyed. Those uprooted were offered compensation
but the amount was paltry, according to the "long-term residents"
Gittings interviewed. They complained about having to relocate "miles
away." They were not given the option to stay nearby and en joy
the green space. Similar tales could be told of the coming, not of
green spaces but of shopping centers designed to satisfy the cravings
(for Starbucks coffee, the latest model color television set, XO cognac,
and so on) of Shanghai’s upwardly mobile professionals. 10
More generally,
throughout the last decade or so, more and more parts of Shanghai
have once again effectively, if not always officially, become off-limits
to migrants from the countryside who have streamed into Shanghai
in search of work ever since the Maoistera restrictions on rural-to-urban
movement were loosened in the 1980s. (According to some estimates,
such migrants, some of whom have struck it rich as entrepreneurs
but most of whom struggle to make ends meet by moving from one low-paying
construction or service-sector job to another with no health care
or social security benefits, now make up roughly a quarter of the
city’s population.) 11 Special steps were taken during
the summit to keep them as far from view as possible when international
business and political leaders were in town. This new pattern of
exclusion is different from the old quasi-colonial one, since it
is not rooted in nationality. It is, though, reminiscent of the
past, since it is linked with other forms of discrimination. For
example, the police apply one set of rules to migrants, another
to "real" citizens, just as foreign-run law enforcement
agencies once treated Chinese and non-Chinese residents differently.
In addition, even
among Shanghai’s long-term residents there is a growing sense of the
city as a place divided between rich and poor that stirs up worrying
echoes of the past. For all their problems, Chinese cities of the
Maoist era, including Shanghai, were ones in which most people (high-ranking
officials being the main exceptions) lived lives that, in material
terms, were quite similar. The Shanghai of 1960, or even of 1980,
was not the sort of place where one foreign visitor in the 1930s described
"the gulf between society’s two halves" as "too grossly
wide for any bridge." 12 That gulf has now reappeared.
As the ethnographer Jos Gamble puts it, the "frantic" pace
of development has led formerly stable social boundaries to be "dismantled,
fractured, undermined, and reconfigured." There are now many
more ways to spend money and more people with money to spend, he writes.
"Evidence of this is readily apparent in the well-stocked stores
and Hong Kong-style shopping plazas packed with shoppers, the proliferation
of advertising billboards, neon signs, numerous lavishly furnished
new restaurants filled with diners, expensive nightclubs, karaoke
bars, jewelry shops, and fancy bakeries." But there is also a
sizable "largely hidden underclass unable to participate in popular
consumption. For these people... a meal at McDonald’s is beyond
their means, let alone, for instance, the designer-label ties on sale
in Shanghai’s fashionable Maison Mode" that cost more than $100
apiece. 13
Local officials
should remember what happened to Old Shanghai in the early 1900s.
Political and economic inequality turned it into a hotbed of protests.
These included tax boycotts that eventually helped native merchants
gain a voice on the municipal councils of the two enclaves; multiclass
studentled general strikes against imperialism that brought the
city to a standstill; and labor uprisings that in 1927 drove from
power the warlord regime that had previously controlled the Chinese-run
part of the metropolis.
It matters
that the political leaders calling the shots as Shanghai reasserts
its status as a global city are not foreigners. It matters that
the tallest buildings are now the Pudong skyscrapers from which
you can peer down at the tops of the Bund’s landmark Western-style
edifices. It would be foolish to conclude, though, that the city
will never again witness scenes of protest and violence from those
who think that being treated like a second-class citizen of a first-class
place is just not good enough. I am not sure that there are many
officials in New Shanghai, though, who are interested in considering
this possibility. After all, one consistent element in Shanghai’s
history has been the tendency for pride to go before each fall,
no matter who has been in charge.
This leads
to a final note about the Shanghai Jubilee, or more accurately,
about the sequel that never was. In 1893, some Shanghailanders looked
forward optimistically to the day 50 years hence when a second celebration
would be organized by their descendants, who they assumed would
live in a city governed in much the same way as the Shanghai in
which they lived. This was not to be. When 1943 arrived, neither
the Shanghailanders nor most local Chinese residents were in the
mood for celebration. This was because, by that point, control of
the city had fallen into very different hands. Parts of it were
directly run by the Japanese military, the French Concession was
controlled by officials linked to France’s Vichy government, and
still other sections of the metropolis were in the hands of Chinese
puppet regimes under Tokyo’s thumb.
A Great City?
Contemporary
boosters and foreign observers interested in where China is heading
also might want to keep in mind a comment that Christopher Isherwood
made about Shanghai in the 1930s. Isherwood, who was traveling across
China with his friend W. H. Auden—with whom he later wrote the fascinating
half-prose, half-verse travelogue, Journey to a War—arrived
in Shanghai just as the Japanese invaders were beating at the city’s
door. Like other visitors before him, Isherwood was struck upon arrival
by the impressive set of buildings that lined the waterfront, but
unlike most others he thought they constituted merely the "façade
of a great city." There was not "anything civic at all"
to be found by the Huangpu, he wrote. The spirit in Shanghai was too
"purely and brutally competitive" to foster the kind of
creativity that needed to be present for an urban center to be more
than just an engine of economic growth. 14
Whether the
same thing will be said about New Shanghai 40 years from now is
an open question. But I found myself thinking of Isherwood’s comments
on façades and about the necessary components of a great
city during my recent stay in the metropolis. Take the new Shanghai
cafés. Local boosters proudly compare them to the cafés
in Amsterdam or Paris, where one can loiter and read the newspapers
and the latest magazines. Foreign commentators point to them as
positive signs that the free market is bringing greater openness
to China.
The problem
is that the only reading materials available in many of the cafés
I visited were fashion magazines. Outside one café, I noticed
a lifelike sculpture of a street musician playing a saxophone. Yet
on my last several trips to the city, I have never actually encountered
a street musician. In a truly great city, the public sphere is one
in which more than fashion can be discussed. It is one in which
street musicians can play songs of protest if they wish. This is
not the Shanghai—or any other mainland city— of today.
Perhaps, over
time, Shanghai—which has indeed become a much more exciting, vibrant,
and in some ways a much more open place than when I first visited
it 15 years ago—will gain a public sphere worthy of its present
façade. Since Shanghai is a city I grew very fond of when
I lived there in the 1980s, have enjoyed revisiting in recent years,
and where I have good friends, I very much hope it will. However,
I do not share the optimism of free market fundamentalists who believe
that economic choice automatically leads to political openness.
One only has to look at Singapore, where authoritarian structures
remain firmly in place.
For all the
talk of Shanghai’s "magical" transformation into a world-class
city, I am haunted by a comment by a local resident whom Jos Gamble
interviewed while con ducting fieldwork for his new ethnography.
According to this Shanghainese, who like many of his fellow citizens
seems torn between excitement and concern when thinking about the
changes going on in his city, the appearance of total transformation
is actually just a "conjuring trick." 15 Has
there been real change in Shanghai? This is a valid question, one
that may take years to answer. We would do well to keep in mind
the dazzling record that both Shanghai and China itself have for
confecting beguiling illusions. When it comes to China, I am thinking
not just of the foreigners who were so entranced by mistaken images
of Chiang Kaishek or Mao Zedong that they overlooked the authoritarian
sides of these two rulers, but also of the unsettling difficulty
in recent months of distinguishing what is fact and what is smokescreen
with respect to official pronouncements about the spread of the
SARS virus.
And when it
comes to Shanghai, I am thinking not just of the bewitching effect
of its skyscrapers, but also of the cautionary note in one of the
most entertaining guides to the city ever written. In Shanghai:
High Lights, Low Lights, Tael Lights, published in the mid1930s,
Maurice Karns and Pat Patterson, two longtime residents, wrote of
the "many otherwise intelligent people misled by gaudy fiction
on the East and by wacky movies" made by directors without
any firsthand knowledge of Asia, who had fallen prey to the "Shanghai
illusion"—a vision of the city that had as little relationship
to the actual metropolis as a "Hollywood opium joint"
had to the real thing. 16 
Notes
1. Jos Gamble,
Shanghai in Transition: Changing Perspectives and Social Contours
of a Chinese Metropolis (New York: Routledge Curzon, 2003),
pp. x–xi. See also Y. M. Yeung and Sung Yunwing, eds., Shanghai:
Transformation and Modernization under China’s Open Policy (Hong
Kong: Chinese University Press, 1996); and Pamela Yatsko, New
Shanghai: The Rocky Rebirth of China’s Legendary City (New York:
John Wiley and Sons, 2002). Among the works in English that address
specific aspects of Shanghai’s recent changes, see James Farrer,
Opening Up: Youth Sex Culture and Market Reform in Shanghai (Chicago:
University of Chicago Press, 2002). There are a number of recent
English-language studies that do not focus directly on Shanghai
but do a good job of placing its recent changes into a larger regional
context. See, for example, Carolyn L. Cartier, Globalizing South
China (Oxford: Blackwells, 2001); and David R. Meyers, Hong
Kong as a Global Metropolis (Cambridge: Cambridge University
Press, 2000). Since this essay is intended primarily for non-specialists,
I will not cite works that belong to the burgeoning Chinese-language
literature on New Shanghai, although my thinking on the subject
has been strongly influenced by the writings of such Shanghai-based
scholars as Li Tiangang. I have also benefited from conversations
about Shanghai with Lynn Pan, the author of several works on the
city that are aimed at popular audiences but confirm to rigorous
scholarly standards; John Gittings, until recently the head of the
Guardian’s China bureau; and Elizabeth Perry, a Harvard political
scientist currently completing a book on labor activism in Shanghai
in the twentieth century.
2. Mike Davis,
City of Quartz: Excavating the Future in Los Angeles (New
York: Vintage, 1990).
3. Rhoads Murphey,
Shanghai: Key to Modern China (Cambridge: Harvard University
Press, 1953), p. 3.
4. The line
"as if by enchantment" comes from The Jubilee of Shanghai
(Shanghai: North China Daily News, 1893), p. 21; for the "magic
returns to Shanghai" motif, see Heinrich Fruehauf, "Urban
Exoticism in Modern and Contemporary Chinese Literature," in
From May Fourth to June Fourth: Fiction and Film in Twentieth-Century
China, ed. Ellen Widmer and David Derwei Wang (Cambridge: Harvard
University Press, 1993), pp. 133–164, esp. p. 152.
5. For the
Venice analogy, see North China Herald, June 16, 1870; here,
Venice is described as a "prototype" for Shanghai.
6. On access
to public parks and related issues, see Robert Bickers and Jeffrey
N. Wasserstrom, "Shanghai’s ‘Chinese Dogs Not Admitted’ Sign:
History, Legend and Contemporary Symbol," China Quarterly,
vol. 142 (June 1995), pp. 444–66.
7. On Chinese
participation in and reactions to the Jubilee, see Bryna Goodman,
"Improvisations on a Semi-Colonial Theme, or, How to read a
Celebration of Transnational Urban Community," Journal of
Asian Studies (November 2000).
8. All quotes
from Jubilee of Shanghai.
9. A great
deal has been written about the current competition as well as the
connections between Hong Kong and Shanghai. A variety of positions
on this are staked out effectively in Yeung and Sung, Shanghai,
and a strong case is made for Hong Kong’s continued financial and
commercial centrality in Meyers, Hong Kong as a Global Metropolis,
which includes useful comparative comments on Shanghai, as well
as in Yatsko, New Shanghai. For Shanghai’s displacement of
Canton in the late 1800s and the current relationship between Shanghai
and Hong Kong, see Cartier, Globalizing South China.
10. John Gittings,
"Fortress Shanghai Awaits Bush," The Guardian (London),
October 16, 2001.
11. Gamble,
Shanghai in Transition, pp. 76–77 and passim. For the most
important general study of rural-urban migration, see Dorothy J.
Solinger, Contesting Citizenship in Urban China: Peasant Migrants,
the State, and the Logic of the Market (Berkeley: University
of California Press, 1999).
12. Christopher
Isherwood and W. H. Auden, Journey to a War (London: Faber
and Faber, 1939), p. 237.
13. Gamble,
Shanghai in Transition, pp. 139, 154.
14. Isherwood
and Auden, Journey to a War, p. 252.
15. Gamble,
Shanghai in Transition, p. 18.
16. This formerly
hard-to-locate text, originally published by Tridon Press in Shanghai,
is now available online at www.talesofoldchina.com.
*Jeffrey
N. Wasserstrom is the director of the East Asian Studies Center
at Indiana University, Bloomington. His recent publications include
Chinese Femininities/Chinese Masculinities (University of California
Press, 2002) and Twentieth Century China: New Approaches (Routledge,
2003). He is at work on Global Shanghai, 1850–2000,
which will be published by Routledge.
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